Now that
the warmer weather is here, everyone’s hair is no longer hidden under hats and
what that means to us at Believe
is that we are seeing an
awful lot of very bad hair color applications—many are do-it-yourself at-home
jobs.
The
reason we see none of our clients among those who look like refugees from tin
foil and paintbrushes over the kitchen sink or (men, are you reading this?) the
ones who look like someone applied shoe polish to their heads is because we are
lucky enough at Believe to have a Master Colorist. Lisa, the
owner of Believe, spent years learning her craft and consulting
on every hair coloring session we do here at Believe.
And while
we can’t condense all her training into one article, here is the first of a
series of articles revealing some things you should know about hair coloring
(even if you insist on doing it yourself—and again, we beg…please don’t!).
Lightening the hair
This is a
preparatory process for the application of a single-action, penetrating tint or
toner and a lightening product used to lighten the hair to the desired shade.
Professional
hair color lighteners were created to lift
dark hair to light by diffusing natural melanin present in the hair's cortex. Experts
like us at Believe
know, they can’t always
guarantee that you’ll walk in with black hair and can walk out a platinum
blonde. (The underlying pigment might not allow that.) We may be able to take
your very dark hair and make it much lighter—but that might take more than one
application of lighteners and (do-it-yourselfers take note) you could be
playing with fire.
Each
application may damage hair due to the level of lightening and chemicals
required to achieve it. The stylists at Believe are looking out for the long-term health
of your hair. Listen to us!
The
over-the-counter lighteners may contain a lower level of potentially harsh
chemicals (and may not lighten your hair properly either) but don’t be fooled.
They can still severely damage your hair. If you must lighten your hair at
home—do a strand test in some inconspicuous place. Remember…Hair lighteners
actually remove color—to just
minimize the color, but remove it completely.
We really do recommend you step away from the box and make an
appointment at Believe. We can assess your hair and tell you if
it’s even a good time to consider lightening your hair. If we find it so, we
will use one of the following hair lighteners: Oil, Cream or Power of Paste.
Oil Hair
Lighteners
Oil
Lighteners usually consist of the mixture of hydrogen peroxide with a
sulfonated oil.
Oil based
lighteners are usually mixed with 20 volume developer and one or more
lightening activators. Many of the lightening activators do contain
ammonium persulfate. It is the ammonium persulfate working in harmony
with the hydrogen peroxide and the lightener to remove any unwanted red, orange
or yellow tones in the hair.
Oil lighteners
can provide maximum control when lightening naturally dark hair, which may take
an hour or more.
Neutral oil lighteners can be used without adding color to soften
the hair to better take a tint later or Colored
oil lighteners add temporary color and highlight hair while they lighten. Gold lightens the hair while adding
red highlights.
Silver lightens
the hair while adding silvery highlights to gray or white hair. It also minimizes
red and gold tones on other types of hair. Red lightens the hair and adds red highlights.
Drab lightens and adds ash highlights, toning
down or reducing red and gold tones.
Cream Hair
Lighteners
Cream
hair lighteners are the most popular types of lighteners. They're easy to
apply and will not run, drip or dry out, making them easy to control. With
conditioning, bluing and thickening agents, they can protect the hair from
harsh chemicals, “drab” or dull red, orange or gold tones, and make sure the
lightener stays even and doesn't run (you don’t want streaks).
Powder Or
Paste Hair Lighteners
Powder or
paste lighteners are the fastest type of hair lighteners. These types of
hair lighters contain oxygen-releasing boosters for quicker and stronger action
in lightening. Your Believe
stylist will mix these lighteners
that hold really well and prevent overlapping with previously colored hair. You
really need a professional to properly use these lighteners so they don’t dry
out too fast, drying out the hair shaft and irritating your scalp.
Make an
appointment with us at Believe to assess the condition of your hair
prior to lightening it. We are happy to take a look, give our honest opinion,
and recommend some next actions to get your hair ready to go lighter, Next
week, check this space for some other things to consider if you taking bold
action and Going Blonde.